Korea Trip 2022: Sauntering Through Busan

I spent about five days in the famous coastal city of Busan, which was the second destination of my two-and-a-half-week-long trip in the southern half of South Korea. I opted to fly from Jeju Island via Jeju Air, and the flight itself took less than an hour. After landing at 김해국제공항 (Gimhae International Airport) | Naver link, I hailed a taxi from the airport to my Airbnb, kickstarting a flurry of activities that took me across the city. I’ve listed the places I visited by districts and neighborhoods, going from west to east, and organized by sights, restaurants, breweries, cafes, and dessert shops.

사하구 (Saha-gu)

Located in the city’s southwest, 감천문화마을 (Gamcheon Culture Village) | Naver link attracts tons of tourists, and for good reason. It consists of a layered neighborhood of multicolored homes built into a mountainside slope, making it a prime Instagram spot. You could take a taxi here, but you’d be better off taking a local bus, as the drivers can navigate the winding and narrow streets here with ease. There are several points from which you can enter the village, but most people (including myself) start from the point closest to the 감천문화마을 안내센터 (Gamcheon Culture Village Information Center) | Naver link. There, I purchased a map in which you can collect stamps from various locations within the village. I didn’t care so much about the stamps; I bought it because not only is it large, it also illustrates several walking paths you can take depending on how much time you have as well as some individual tourist attractions. No matter what path you take, you’d be surrounded by tons of photo opportunities - whether they be the houses, the various murals, neighborhood pets, or art pieces such as the famous titular character and fox from The Little Prince (there was a line of people waiting for their turn to take photos with these). If you’re in the mood for a snack like I was, there are multiple cafes and vendors selling food and drinks along the paths. I ducked into 감천쫀드기 / 왕자양과점 (Prince Bakery) | Naver link and purchased a 마시멜로우 딸기 아이스크림(torched marshmallow strawberry ice cream) - a delightful block of strawberry ice cream encased in toasted marshmallow - for ₩4,500 ($3.16). For a good view of the village mostly free of power lines, I recommend heading over to 카페아방가르드 (Cafe Avantgarde) | Naver link, located on the second floor of a building near the aforementioned information center. I bought an 오렌지에이드 (orangeade) for ₩4,800 ($3.37) and headed out onto the patio, where I took a seat, sipped the refreshing drink, and took photos of the spectacular view. In all, I spent about two hours in the village, and my legs got a pretty good workout from the experience thanks to the inclining and declining paths as well as coming down the 별 보러 가는 계단 (Stairs to See Stars) - a flight of 148 steps that stretches through a portion of the village.

중구 (Jung-gu)

If you love perusing through bookstores, look no further than 보수동책방골목 (Bosudong Book Street) | Naver link, which is an alley that full of old bookstores that was established back during the Korean War. Back then, North Korean evacuees opened a street stall and laid out out magazines and old books. After the war, such bookstores became successful since students and intellectuals sought books to study, leading the alley to become what it is today. The street stretches from 대청로 (Daecheong-ro) to 대청로53번길 (Daecheong-ro Road Number 53), and you can enter the alley from at least four points. Wherever you enter, walking there and seeing countless stacks and bookshelves chock-full of books in each store (not to mention out into the alley itself) make for an impressive experience.

You can expect pretty much any city in Korea to have a traditional market, and Busan is no different - in fact, this district has two right next to each other! 부평깡통시장 (Bupyeong Kkangtong Market) | Naver link is one of them. During the war, it was known because it carried a variety of imported canned good from the U.S. Hence, the words 깡통 (Kkangtong) in the market’s name means “tin can”. Nowadays, the market is mostly known for its food stalls. I didn’t stay here for long since I had a full day ahead of me, but I did note the fair amount of activity despite it being not even 11:00am. I saw that a fire had occurred very recently, as a group of forensic investigators were making their way into one of the charred stalls.

The other traditional market nearby is 국제시장 (Gukje Market) | Naver link, and between the two, this one is more well known. There’s a wide variety of vendors located here, and in my very brief walk here, I noticed that it like most markets, it was divided into sections, and the section I found myself in had quite the assortment of light bulbs in addition to bedding and cute pillows. Because I came here in the morning, only a handful of shops were open for business.

Anyone familiar with Busan knows that if you’re craving seafood, the go-to place is 부산자갈치시장 (Jagalchi Market) | Naver link. Located on the edge of 남포항 (Nampo Port), you can expect to find an abundance of seafood here, whether they be live, dried, and pickled. As tempted as I was to have raw fish for brunch here, there was a Busan specialty I had yet to try (this was on my second-to-last day in the city), so I forced myself to walk around not just the multi-story building that houses the live fish vendors and restaurants, but also the outdoor market “alleys”, where the smell of seafood hung thick in the air.

That Busan specialty I mentioned in the previous paragraph? It’s 밀냉면 (wheat noodles), and I after searching for restaurants serving it on Naver, I headed over to 대성밀냉면 (Daeseong Wheat Noodles) | Naver link, located a few blocks away from Bupyeong Kkangtong Market. This restaurant occupies two spaces, and you can enter into either one. I generally like these noodles on the spicy side and mixed with vegetables and meat, so I opted for the 비빔밀면 (mixed wheat noodles) for ₩7,500 ($5.27). The noodles, doused in chili sauce, were quite good, and I got some nice textural contrast when eating them with cucumbers as well as some savory bites when eating it with the boiled pork and egg strips.

영도구 (Yeongdo-gu)

Gamcheon Culture Village isn’t the only multicolored village in Busan - there’s also 흰여울문화마을 (Huinnyeoul Culture Village), located not too far away! While it isn’t as large as Gamcheon Culture Village, Huinnyeoul Culture Village does offer a change in scenery, as its location on the coast leads to it overlooking the ocean. It also features a host of art pieces and murals, and you can reliably come across some cafes and eateries. The village is divided into “layers”, and I wore out my legs even further by walking along the paths stretching across it and climbing up and down a series of stairs that “link” the village’s layers. I even walked down to the coastline walkway, which led to a cave which I didn’t care enough to access. While this village noticeably didn’t attract as many people, I saw this as a benefit since it meant that I could walk around without being too close to others. The only unfortunate thing was that I couldn’t find a good location to really photograph a wide shot of these colorful buildings. Wanting to rest my legs, I discovered the adorably named 더레이지캣 (The Lazy Cat) | Naver link, a cafe that was a whopping four stories tall. I placed an order for the 제주청귤에이드 (Jeju green mandarin-ade) for ₩6,500 ($4.56) and then took it up a several narrow flights of stairs up to the fourth floor balcony, which gave me a sweet view of the ocean below. This icy carbonated drink hit the spot, and after breathing in the seaside breeze, I decided to head out. I did feel a little hungry though, so I couldn’t help but stop at 비비타 (Vivita) | Naver link after seeing a poster for their pies. I ordered a 비비타미트파이 (Vivita meat pie) for ₩6,900 ($4.84), and I tucked into it ravenously, savoring the bites of meat, tomato, and onions. It had been some time since I had Western food, and I found that I had been missing it.

금정구 (Geumjeong-gu)

I’ve had my fair share of great dishes during my time in Korea, and one of the best I had came from 토비코 (Tobico) | Naver link. This Japanese-inspired restaurant is about a ten-minute walk from 부산대역 1호선 (Busan National University Station - Busan Line 1) | Naver link. There were plenty of enticing dishes on the menu, and after some deliberation, I ordered the 새우크림알밥 (shrimp cream fish egg rice) for ₩7,900 ($5.55). While waiting for the food, I went over to the self-serve bar (a common feature in many restaurants in Korea) and returned with water and three sides: pickled vegetables, a salad, and some noodles in an udon-like broth. All three sides were good and helped keep the edge off my hunger. The real winner, though, was the fish egg rice. The shrimp cream was simply delectable, and when mixed into the rice with everything else including fish eggs, seaweed, vegetables, and a raw egg, every bite I took was just bursting with interesting and well-balanced flavors. As I was heading out, I noticed that the restaurant has a freezer with several frozen meals, which includes some of the dishes on their menu. I was so tempted to buy one, but I decided against it because there were so many other places in Busan that I wanted to eat at. However, I aim to return to this restaurant the next time I’m in the city!

From Tobico, cross the street directly in front and head north a little bit before turning right onto 금정로52번길 (Geumjeong-ro Road Number 52). You’ve just stumbled into a alley full of cafes! While it doesn’t seem to have an official name (and thus hard to pinpoint on Naver Maps), bloggers have referred to this alley as 부산대 카페골목 (Busan National University Cafe Alley). Whatever it’s called, it’s a very neat place to explore, and it reminded me of Seoul’s Ikseondong - albeit a compressed version of that. There’s such a wealth of cafes to choose from, and as much as I would have liked to grab a drink or a snack at each one, it just wasn’t feasible for the limited time I had here (one hour). After scrolling through the cafes’ profiles on Naver, I stepped into Etalee | Naver link, as it was known for egg tarts and I was in the mood for dessert. Alas, they were out! I didn’t feel like leaving, so instead, I ordered a 자몽브랙티 (grapefruit black tea) for ₩6,500 ($4.56) and took a seat at a window booth right outside the cafe. The drink was nice and refreshing, and I liked the cafe’s homey and relaxed atmosphere. Still, I wanted some kind of dessert, so afterward I headed into the nearby 비윤 (Byoon) | Naver link. This warmly lit and inviting cafe specializes in brownies, so I ordered a 치즈 브라우니 (cheese brownie) and 그린 코히 (green cohi) for ₩11,500 ($8.07). The brownie had the texture of cheesecake, and while I thought it was tasty, it was also a bit heavy. What exactly is cohi, you may ask? I found out much later that it’s actually how the Japanese word for “coffee” is pronounced! This drink was nice to sip on, though I didn’t think it was memorable. I have to say, I discovered this alley completely by chance, and I was so glad that I did during my stay in Busan.

남구 (Nam-gu)

Sometimes, plans don’t always play out the way you want. That’s what happened to me when I took a bus over to 오륙도스카이워크 (Oryukdo Skywalk) | Naver link, a tourist attraction that’s grown in popularity recently but, on the day that I went, was closed due to construction. As disappointed as I was (not so much with its temporary closure as it was my failure to check its status online before arriving), I gauged my surroundings to see what else I could check out. Right next to the skywalk is 오륙도해맞이공원 (Oryuk Island Sunrise Park) | Naver link - a park with a picturesque view of the islets nearby set against lush ocean blue. There’s actually a series of coastal trails that you can access from this park. Normally I would have attempted to walk these, but this was just two days after I climbed Hallasan in Jeju Island, and my legs were protesting almost any time I even tried to climb up an incline - so I left after taking in some really wonderful sights.

Being in Korea means being reminded of the fact that there was a war here not even a century ago, a war that hasn’t really ended. In Busan, the 유엔기념공원 (United Nations Memorial Cemetery in Korea) | Naver link is one such reminder of that war and the many lives from around the world that were lost. This is the only UN-designated cemetery in the world, serving as the final resting place of the UN forces who served in Korea; there are over 2,300 individuals from 11 countries interred here. I entered through the main gate and first visited the Memorial Service Hall before walking through the grave areas and observing the UN Forces Monument. It was certainly a sobering experience, and as I gazed upon each grave, I wondered how the fallen would feel had they found out that the war they fought in never really ended.

I’ve had 돼지국밥 (pork soup with rice) before in Los Angeles (hello Jinsol Gukbap LA!), and knowing that it’s a Busan specialty, there was no way I’d leave the city without trying it. There’s a whole host of restaurants that offer this dish, and 쌍둥이돼지국밥 본점 (Twins Pork Soup with Rice Main Branch) | Naver link appeared to be a really popular spot. I ordered one bowl for ₩9,000 ($6.32), and I received quite a generous spread of food that included the soup, rice, chives, kimchi, onions, chili peppers, raw garlic, fermented shrimp, and ssamjang. Locals here generally scoop the rice into the soup and add the chives as they see fit, and what you get is a very hearty bowl of soup that’s worth tucking into. If you’re craving some salt, dip some pork into the fermented shrimp. Smear the chili peppers and garlic into the ssamjang or eat the kimchi to get some pungent flavors. If you want something a bit refreshing, eat some onions. All in all, what you get is a pretty balanced meal, and you’re guaranteed to walk away at least content, if not full.

수영구 (Suyeong-gu)

It was my first night in Busan, and it seemed appropriate to eat raw fish. Yes, Jagalchi Market is arguably the place to get it in Busan, but that was a ways away from where I was. What was closer was 남천해변시장 (Namcheon Beach Market) | Naver link - another seafood market that, funnily enough, a friend recommended that I visit over Jagalchi Market. The market’s building is several stories high, but most of the live fish was being sold in a single floor. It doesn’t have as many vendors compared to Jagalchi Market, which I didn’t mind because I felt that I wasn’t being overwhelmed with choice. Since I was by myself, I knew that I didn’t want to get a large fish. With that in mind, I took a few laps around the vendors, all of whom tried to catch my attention. Finally, I stopped at Stall Number 5, named 울산상회 (Ulsan Raw Fish) | Naver link, for there were a number of small-yet-decently-sized 우럭 (rockfish). I turned to the lady running the stall and picked out two rockfish. After telling her that I wished to eat them raw, she began filleting and slicing the fish into bite-sized pieces, occasionally throwing the guts and scraps for the other live fish to eat. My two fish cost me ₩30,000 (approximately $20.90), and after the lady found out that I wanted to eat back at my Airbnb, she gave me not just a container of chili paste, wasabi, and soy sauce, but also a bowl of rice which she had intended to have for lunch but didn’t end up eating! I thanked her profusely for her kindness, and it was with a grateful heart that I later ate this meal, the fish being chewy and tasting clean.

My Airbnb was in an officetel located right on 광안리해수욕장 (Gwangalli Beach) | Naver link, and as I found out, I was so lucky to have booked it. Soon after I arrived, some friends told me that BTS was having a concert in the city on my second night, so naturally, fans had been gobbling up whatever decent hotel rooms and Airbnbs they could find. How I managed to book my gem of an Airbnb just three weeks before my check-in date, I have no idea. Gwangalli Beach is always bustling with activity. In the mornings, I could walk up and down the beach, seeing runners or locals hanging out at cafes and drinking coffee. At night, Gwangan Bridge would light up (in purple when I was there - apparently because of BTS), and hundreds of people would merrily drink at bars or chatter on the beach. One night, there was some kind of festival going on, and dozens of boats out on the water lit torches. And best of all? As you’re about to find out, there’s a wealth of interesting restaurants, cafes, and breweries at this beach.

As I discovered early on during my time in Korea, Koreans aren’t that keen on breakfast or brunch. That’s not to say they don’t eat in the mornings; while some have the luxury of eating a home-cooked meal before heading out to work, most people tend to grab a quick bite from vendor stalls or convenience stores. Only certain restaurants open in the morning, as most places tend to open at 11:00am or after. Thus, imagine my surprise when I saw that there were several restaurants with a Western-style brunch on Gwangalli Beach, and 광안리비비드13 (Vivid13) | Naver link is one of them. What brought me to this place was the fact that they offered a 풀잉글리쉬브런치 (full English brunch), which ended up being the last meal I had in the city. This platter came with an English muffin breakfast sandwich (which included shrimp!), sauteed vegetables, beans, a single sausage, and a hash brown. This cost ₩17,000 ($11.89), and while the portions were generous, the meal itself was a mixed bag. I liked the breakfast sandwich and the sausage, and the hash brown was fine. On the other hand, the beans were cold, and I thought the vegetables should have been cooked longer, as they were a bit on the watery side.

One morning, I searched on Naver for nearby restaurants that were open a bit early in the morning, which is how I discovered 할매재첩국부산본점 (Halmae Corbicula Soup Busan Main Branch) | Naver link. Not only did it have a pretty respectable average rating, a ton of Naver users had reviewed it. I walked the two blocks over from my Airbnb and was surprised to see it fairly busy; I was lucky to get an open table shorlty after I arrived. The restaurant is known for serving corbicula, which is a species of freshwater clam. I ordered the 재첩정식 (corbicula set meal) for ₩10,000 ($7.02). It came with namesake corbicula soup, braised mackerel, rice, and mixed vegetables to make mixed rice, to which I added some of the corbicula and broth. It’s an impressive array of food, but to be honest, I felt underwhelmed. The broth has a strong clam flavor that’s nice to sip on, but the mixed rice needed more seasoning, even though I tried adding some banchan to it. The mackerel was fine, but I’ve had better ones, at home and at other restaurants. While this restaurant ultimately wasn’t for me, I was still glad to have tried it, especially at its very affordable price point.

There are a couple conveyor belt sushi restaurants on the beach, and they were buzzing every time I passed by. Since I hadn’t been to one in about three years, I decided to dine at one for dinner on my last night in Busan. The one I went to was 용이초밥 광안리점 (Yongi Sushi Gwangalli Branch) | Naver link, where each plate - no matter the protein nor the color of the plate - cost ₩2,200 (estimated $1.53) apiece. The hostess seated me at the bar, and after assessing what was being served, I began to take one plate at a time. The selection here was quite nice, and I tried anything that remotely caught my interest - from your standard salmon and tuna to soy sauce marinated shrimp and Spam. After figuring out what my favorites were (raw octopus), I went for seconds. One chef even gave me one plate - beef sushi - on the house. I ate a total of 19 plates (including the free one), and my bill came out to ₩39,600 ($27.80).

On Gwangalli Beach, there’s a street called 광안리 불고기거리 (Gwangalli Bulgogi Street) | Naver link. 불고기 (bulgogi) literally translates to “fire meat”, and it refers to thin, marinated strips of meat that are typically grilled on a barbecue or a stovetop griddle. Here, there are a number of restaurants specializing in 언양불고기 (Eonyang bulgogi), a type of bulgogi hailing from Eonyang, a village in Ulsan. I thought it would be nice for my first meal in Busan, so I poked my head into 언양불고기 부산집본가 (Eonyang Bulgogi Busan House Home) | Naver link and after being seated, ordered the Eonyang bulgogi for ₩33,000 ($23.19). While waiting for the food to arrive, I read about the restaurant’s history, which was posted on the wall; they first opened the business in Eonyang in 1973 before moving to their current location on 1981, meaning that they had been operating for over 45 years! On the grill, the hostess laid out one serving of bulgogi, Enoki mushrooms, eggplant, kabocha squash, and potato. There was, of course, banchan, accompanied by some items for ssam. While I generally don’t order bulgogi at restaurants (because you can easily make it at home), the Eonyang bulgogi was quite tasty, and I also enjoyed the grilled eggplant and squash. As I saw it, my food adventures in Busan was off to a good start!

I can get indecisive when there are too many choices and I have limited time to make a decision. I was in such a situation one night when I was at a loss for dinner. After all, there’s no shortage of restaurants on Gwangalli Beach, so where do I go? After spending about 20 minutes wandering about and seeing what was available, I stopped at a small joint called 난파센 (Nanpasen) | Naver link, which specialized in Japanese food. When I peeked inside, I saw that it was completely full, so I put myself on a waitlist - which already had about four groups ahead of me. I quickly understood how popular this restaurant was, so I waited outside for about 15 minutes before the hostess finally called my name. Most of their fare is quite affordable, and having perused through the menu during my wait, I ordered the 새우덴동 (shrimp tempura rice bowl) for ₩9,900 ($8.35). Having been seated at the bar, I got a good view of the chefs as they made my food, and I was pleased to see them carefully frying the shrimp and vegetables for my bowl. It came out very warm, and I gladly tucked into it. The tempura was nicely fried and lightly crunchy, and I walked back to my Airbnb feeling very satisfied.

Apparently Korea’s craft beer scene has been growing for several years now, so when I read about 갈매기브루잉 광안본점 (Galmegi Brewing - Gwangan Main Branch) | Naver link years ago, I added it to my itinerary. This brewery, located on the second story of a building, doesn’t open until the afternoon. Having arrived about 20 minutes early, I explored the nearby alleys before returning right as they opened for business. I was the first one there, and the only staff member present told me to sit wherever I liked, so I chose the couch near the TV. While they didn’t have a wide variety of beers to offer, what they did have piqued my interest. I decided that the Standard Sampler - which consisted of 200 milliliter pours apiece of the Busan Lager, Amber, Galmegi IPA, and Sea Breeze - for ₩14,000 ($9.84) was the way to go. This beer flight arrived moments later along with a small container of pretzels. To my delight, each pour of beer came with a card describing it. The Busan Lager had a subtle citrus aroma, the Amber tasted of toffee and caramel, the Galmegi IPA had undertones of pine, and the Sea Breeze featured sourness from yuzu. I like amber beers a lot, so Galmegi Brewing’s Amber was my definitive favorite, but I did enjoy the others as well. I was the only one customer present (understandable, since it was barely even 3:00pm), and I appreciated the experience of having this place to myself.

I fell in love with Korean cafes during my trip, and having been back to the U.S. for nearly two months now, I sure do miss them. Gwangalli Beach has a lot of them to choose from, and on the morning I left Busan, I made my way over to 카페오뜨 광안비치점 (Haute Gwangan Beach Branch) | Naver link. This cafe is several stories high and, as with many of the beachfront cafes here, you get a sweet view of Gwangan Bridge. I put in an order for the 오뜨 비엔나커피 (Haute Vienna coffee) for ₩6,500 ($4.54) on the second floor, and after it came out, I gingerly took it up to the third floor, where the windows had fully opened up to let the air and sun in. My drink had a thick layer of cream on top, and I gently folded it into the coffee itself. I found this drink to be quite delightful, and looking out over the beach, I believed this was a proper way to bid goodbye to the city. As I sipped my coffee, I couldn’t help but feel melancholy. As they say, all good things have to come to an end, and what I experienced in Busan certainly qualified.

After I had dinner at Nanpasen, I went right next door to 젤라떼리아 사우스브룩 (Southbrook Gelato) | Naver link, a modest and quiet gelato shop. They had a decent selection of flavors to choose from, and I ordered one cup containing a scoop apiece of 체리 풍당 우유 (milk with cherry) and 임페리얼 라떼 (imperial latte [caramel]) for ₩4,500 ($3.16). The milk with cherry flavor was fine, though I did think that a little tartness would have helped. The imperial latte flavor, on the other hand, I enjoyed immensely. When comparing this to the other two gelato shops I tried in Seoul, I prefer them over this one mainly because I thought they showcased more creativity for their flavor choices.

해운대구 (Haeundae-gu)

Go to any metropolitan area in Korea, and you’ll comfortably find at least one or two department stores you can shop at. Arguably, the most well-known one in Busan is 신세계 센텀시티몰 (Shinsegae Centum City Mall) | Naver link. Shinsegae is one of the biggest department store names in the country, and this location really is massive. I wanted to get gifts for some friends, so I went here to see if they had any I had in mind. This is divided into essentially two buildings, linked together by a passageway on several floors. One building, the department store, stands 11 stories high and features a golf range on the top floor. The other building, the mall, is a modest seven floors. For both, there are several basement levels for parking and shopping. I don’t enjoy shopping, so for me, the experience was mostly a blur as I went from building to building, floor to floor, and section by section to try and find gifts. Still, I was impressed by the sheer grandeur of the mall, from some of its store designs to its features, which included a movie theater.

Right across from the Shinsegae is 영화의전당 (Busan Cinema Center) | Naver link. This place is the official exclusive venue for the annual Busan International Film Festival (BIFF), which wrapped up on my first day in the city. By the time I arrived two days later, it was mostly empty, with the sole exception being a few families, some students, and other locals milling about. The whole center is impressively designed, and it reminded me of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul. The BIFF Theatre, an outdoor theater where the festival’s opening and closing ceremonies are held, has a 4,000 seat capacity. I went up to the second floor of the BIFF Hill and found - to my immense delight - a library containing not only books upon books about films and filmmaking, but screening rooms for people to come in and watch segments of movies. Right before I left, I saw that right across from me were the offices of the Korean Film Council!

If you’re the type of person who loves beaches, then coming to 해운대해수욕장 (Haeundae Beach) | Naver link just makes sense, doesn’t it? Walking along it, I got the sense that it’s not dissimilar to Gwangalli Beach; it draws tons of people and features cafes and restaurants galore. The only differences are that here, there’s no bridge right on the water and there appear to be more hotels. I did enjoy walking down the jetty on the beach’s east end, as a handful of fisherman were there trying their luck (they hadn’t caught anything yet). This was the day after the BTS concert, and as I walked along the beach, I saw that there was a special exhibition where people had to register online and pay in order to enter (so I didn’t check it out), and there was an outdoor event or some sort where the organizers were playing the band’s music.

For months, even years before I went on my Korea trip, I followed a bunch of tourism profiles for certain Korean cities on Instagram, so every now and then, I would take note of any interesting-looking places and add it to my itinerary. For Busan, one such place was 청사포다릿돌전망대 (Cheongsapo Bridge Observatory) | Naver link. This curved bridge stretches out into the ocean for over 70 meters but doesn’t connect to anything - it’s merely an observatory from which you can look out into the ocean at passing ships or along the coastline, which is abundant with activity. You must put on some slip-ons over your shoes since the bridge’s surface can get slippery, and once you’re on the bridge, there are grates and glass sections that you can walk on and look down into the waters below. It may not look exciting, but I for one loved the bridge’s color (a deep blue) and curved design.

Next to the Cheongsapo Bridge Observatory is a rail line, and it actually runs along the coast. From the observatory, I could choose to go further north or head south toward Haeundae Beach. Since I was planning to head there anyway, I opted for the latter, so I bought a single-way ticket for ₩7,000 ($4.91). The trains come at scheduled times, and once I was inside, I found that all the seats (in two rows) actually face out toward the ocean. There are stops along the way, and people can get on or off depending on what ticket they bought. If you opt to take the train down south like I did, it eventually leads to 해운대블루라인파크 (Haeundae Blue Line Park) | Naver link. This place is very popular; after I got off, I saw that there were no less than 100 people in line, waiting to take the train. In addition to the traditional train, there are mini train cars - seating only a couple people - running on a separate rail line just above the one I rode on.

Another Busan specialty is 어묵 (fish cake), and much like pork soup with rice, you’ll see tons of places selling this dish not only across the city, but the country. Admittedly, while I don’t love fish cakes (it’s perfectly fine), it didn’t feel right for me to leave Busan without trying them out. As I was walking around Haeundae Beach, I came across 고래사어묵해운대점 (Goraesa Fish Cake Haeundae Branch) | Naver link, in which large models of fish cakes adorn the outside of the restaurant. I headed inside, and they actually have open bars of various fish cakes that you can choose and pay for at the counter. From there, I picked up a 문어볼꼬치 (skewered octopus fish ball cake), 게다리어묵 (crab leg fish cake), and 구운 통새우마리 (roasted shrimp roll fish cake). The restaurant also has some specialty items, and I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity to eat 딤섬어묵 (새우맛 랍스터맛) [dim sum fish cake (shrimp & lobster)], so I ordered that as well. My total came out to ₩16,600 ($11.30). While I was told that the dim sum would take a while, one of the servers brought them out to me just minutes after I sat down. Since the fish cakes at the bars are cold, I heated them in the microwaves they have open. If you’d like, you can even ask for fish cake broth! The dim sum were very juicy and hot, and I really enjoyed it. The skewered octopus fish ball cake and crab leg fish cake were fine, nothing to write home about. I did like the flavors of the roasted shrimp roll fish cake, though. I enjoyed my experience here, and I could see myself coming back again.

기장군 (Gijang-gun)

I visited a fair number of Buddhist temples during my Korea trip, and 해동용궁사 (Haedong Yonggungsa) | Naver link is one of the more impressive ones I’ve seen. It’s built right onto the coastline, so when the waves come in, they splash against the rocks not even fifty or sixty feet below the temple. This temple receives tons of visitors, and if you go on a weekend like I do (especially when it’s very nice out), expect it to be very packed. Walking down the stairs leading to the temple, I first turned left toward the rocks on the coast, where there was a golden Buddhist statue as well as a small temple building. I recommend coming to this statue since from there, you can get a great view of the entire temple and its surroundings. When crossing the bridge toward the main temple, I glanced over to my right, and I saw a terraced structure, with statues and figures on each layer. The statues and architecture offer so much to look at, like the dragons carved into a stone railing and the Great Goddess Buddha looking out over the whole temple. The contents of each temple building are simply eye-popping, whether it be golden statues, colorful figures, or lotus lanterns hanging from the ceilings. Various Buddhist trinkets line the walls outside, and there was even an underground room, where I got to see some historical artifacts.

After touring Haedong Yonggungsa, I wanted a quiet cafe where I could sit down, get a cold drink, and connect to the WiFi so I could chat with my family. From the temple, I walked down the road that leads out onto the main road, and after walking a bit further to the west, I came across 커피베이 부산오시리아점 (CoffeeBay Busan Osiria Branch) | Naver link. This is part of a chain, and I had seen a handful of branches across the country. Seeing that there was no one inside, I thought it was perfect for my needs. I ordered a 토피넛 라떼 (toffee nut latte) for ₩4,000 ($2.81), which was a terrific refreshment. The sweetness from the toffee complemented the whipped cream and crushed nuts very well. I spent about a half hour here before moving on to the next place on my itinerary.

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