Korea Trip 2022: On the Road in Jeju Island

I embarked on a two-and-a-half-week-long trip during the second half my Korea trip, and 제주도 (Jeju Island) was my first stop. I spent almost five days on the island, getting around using a car I rented from Lotte Car Rental (note to others interested in visiting: rent a car - it’s very much worth it and saves you more time than taking buses and taxis). Here’s a writeup describing all the places I went to during my time there, organized by city and essentially going clockwise starting from 제주국제공항 (Jeju International Airport) | Naver link.

제주시 (Jeju City)

It was the evening of my last day on Jeju Island, and I was famished, having not eaten anything all day. I was more than happy to eat just about anything, so where better to go than 동문재래시장 (Dongmun Traditional Market) | Naver link? It turned out to be the right choice, with dozens of vendors selling a wealth of goods that were fried, grilled, baked - heck, just about every method of cooking was on display here.

My first stop at this market was 베지근국수 (Bejigun Noodle) | Naver link, which is known for their 고기국수 (pork noodles), which was being sold for ₩8,000 ($5.62) per bowl. The warm yet refreshing broth, along with the supple noodles and tender slices of pork, was just what I needed, and I felt my strength returning after an incredibly strenuous hike from earlier that day.

I still had room to eat more, so after leaving the restaurant, I came across a stall called 황금돼지 (Golden Pig), where they were selling 흑돼지오겹말이 (Black Pig pork belly roll) for ₩10,000 (estimated $6.99). I had seen these pork belly rolls being sold at other markets in Korea, but what enticed me about this one was that they use pork belly from the famous native Jeju Black pigs. After requesting one, I was asked whether I wanted cheese or kimchi inside, and I opted for the latter after they recommended it, also choosing a barbecue flavor. As interesting as this looked, I wasn’t impressed by it. The pork roll was clearly influenced by gimbap, and as well cooked as the pork was, it didn’t really bring together the flavors inside the roll, which included the kimchi, cabbage, and carrot. It just felt like a mishmash of flavors.

After the disappointing pork roll, I looked around for dessert, and soon I found myself in front of 제라헌 오메기떡 (Jeraheon Omegi Rice Cake) | Naver link. These rice cakes are a Jeju Island specialty, and I bought five of them (including original, mugwort, green tea, mango, and banana) for ₩5,000 (estimated $3.49). With the exception of the original (which surprisingly tasted a bit sour - and not in a good way), I enjoyed these cakes, with the flavors being more subtle than I had anticipated.

As I was on my way out, I couldn’t help but stop at 천혜향 수제아이스크림 (Cheonhyehyang Homemade Ice Cream), where I bought a 치즈문어빵 (octopus-shaped cheese pastry) for ₩3,500 (estimated $2.44). As excited as I was to eat this, I was a bit let down by the fact that the cheese had cooled down, meaning that it was no longer that stretch-out-with-each-bite stringy, with the texture instead being more akin to cheese blocks. Perhaps I took a little too long to eat this, or perhaps the vendor didn’t melt the cheese all the way. Regardless, I left the market feeling very full and satisfied overall.

That hike I mentioned previously? It was at 한라산국립공원 (Hallasan National Park) | Naver link, specifically on the 한라산국립공원관음사탐방로 (Hallasan National Park Gwaneumsa Trail) | Naver link. This trail is one of two that lead up to the summit of Hallasan, which is the highest point in all of South Korea. Should you wish to go to the summit, you’ll actually have to make a reservation for either trail, and do so well in advance (if you don’t show up, there’s a penalty). While I wanted to go on the route that’s longer but less steep, it was too late for me to reserve a spot for that one, and since I wanted to visit the summit, I decided to sign up for the Gwaneumsa route.

I started hiking at around 8:30am, and not even a half hour passed before my shirt became soaked in sweat beneath my sweater. I cannot emphasize just how steep this trail is. The first kilometer or so is quite straightforward despite being at an incline, but the next several kilometers alternate between rocks and stairs, with the remaining course being mostly stairs. What’s more, there’s a time limit, which varies depending on the season. When I went, I had to reach the 삼각봉대피소 (Samgakbong Shelter) by 12:30pm, and then I had until 2:00pm to reach the summit. Fail to reach these in time, and the park rangers will ask you to turn around. I reached the shelter (6 kilometers from the trail entrance) a little around 11:30am, and from there, the rest of the trail (another 2.7 kilometers) consists of stairs all the way up to the summit. By the time I reached the shelter, I was well within where the clouds are on the mountain, and I could see them creep over the nearest peaks like ghosts. As exhausted as I was, the sights get exponentially breathtaking from the shelter and on, as I could witness fall foliage and - as I climbed even higher - look out above the clouds themselves. Such wondrous sights gave me little bursts of will even as my mental fortitude was being sapped by the relentless climb. By the time I nearly crawled onto the summit, it was nearly 1:00pm. There was over a hundred people there, with most in a line to take photos of themselves with the summit marker. I didn’t want to spend most of my time at the summit in line, so I took about a half hour to rest, look around, and take photos - particularly of the small lake within the summit’s crater (Hallasan is a shield volcano). The views here are nothing short of spectacular; I loved looking down at the cities in the distance as well as the ocean.

You’d think that a descending trip would be easy, and it was - until I passed the shelter. Remember those rocks on the trail? As it turned out, it rained on Jeju Island a few days prior, and they were still wet. This meant that if your shoes or boots don’t have a solid footing on a rock when you step down, you’ll slip and most likely fall. I slipped and fell multiple times - twice on my left knee and once on my tailbone. Anytime the path became rocky, I had to gingerly step on the rocks and grab the ropes on the sides of the trail, lest I slip and fall again. My descent was just as strenuous and even more painful than my ascent, and the sheer relief I felt when I reached the trail entrance past 4:30pm was indescribable. In all, the Gwaneumsa course is expected to take about nine to ten hours, and I finished it in just over eight. Would I do it again? Probably not; my thighs, knees, calves, and ankles were sore for days after the hike, and even as I write this a month later, I still feel some pain in my tailbone whenever I sit down on anything too quickly.

명진전복 (Myeongjin Abalone) | Naver link was where I got my first meal on Jeju Island. I arrived just past 2:30pm on a Monday, and I was stunned to find that not only was the restaurant full, but there were also nearly a dozen parties ahead of me in line. I was asked to fill out an order ticket indicating the number of people in my party (one), what dishes I planned to order, and my phone number. After that, I ended up waiting about 40 minutes (I killed time by taking photos of the coast, just a stone’s throw away from the restaurant) before I was finally called in. The restaurant’s specialty is abalone, and the dish I had my eye on was the 전복돌솥밥 (abalone sizzling stone pot rice). For ₩15,000 ($10.70), I received not only the dish, but also an array of banchan that included a rectangular slice of steamed egg (which was probably the best I’ve ever tasted) as well as half a grilled mackerel, cut from nose to tail. The stone pot rice contained not only several slices of raw abalone, but also kabocha pieces, dates, and other bits of vegetables. While the abalone lent textural contrast, the rice had a sweetness thanks to those fruit and vegetables. Funnily enough, the table had a container of packaged butter, so I added it to my dish to add a little more flavor - it was the right move. At the end, I poured some hot water from a kettle given to me into the stone pot and covered it to make 누룽지 (scorched rice), which I happily dug into after waiting a few minutes for the water to soften the blackened rice at the bottom.

Right next to Myeongjin Abalone is a small dessert and drink stand called 귤하르방 구좌점 (Mandarin Orange Hareubang Confectionary) | Naver link. They use Jeju Island’s famous mandarin oranges and tangerines to create items such as pastries, marmalade, and juice. While waiting for a table to open at the restaurant, I opted to buy a bag of their 하르방빵 (Hareubang bread) - which contained 22 하르방 (hareubang - the symbol of Jeju Island)-shaped pastries - as well as a bottle of their 청혜향 감귤 (mandarin orange juice) for a total of ₩10,500 (estimated $7.37). Textually, the Hareubang bread was very similar to taiyaki, though the batter and the (thin) filling was mandarin orange-flavored. They were quite good and helped take the edge off of my hunger. The juice wasn’t overly sweet and tasted quite refreshing. There’s actually a waiting room for the restaurant that’s conjoined with this stall, so plenty of waiting patrons usually end up buying snacks and drinks from the stall.

One of the island’s attractions that I’ve been seeing more prominently on social media and travel-related videos is 신창풍차해안도로 (Shinchang Windmill Coastal Road) | Naver link. Located along the western coastline, this area boasts a pathway that runs around several of these large windmills. Unfortunately, when I went, most of the pathway was closed for construction. Still, the line of windmills stretch across the coastline as the sun was going down made for an impressive sight, and there are several spots (such as an abandoned, run-down building) that are prime for photoshoots.

Many say that the best beach to visit on the island is 협재해수욕장 (Hyeopjae Beach) | Naver link, as it’s well known for its incredibly clear waters. I found myself in an extremely one-sided race with the sun on my way there, as it was my intent to arrive on time for sunset; I ended up arriving a little after, with the sun being just faint hues of pink, yellow, and orange on the horizon. Luckily, there was just enough light for me to walk along the beach’s rocks and then approach the water to see if it really was clear; it was.

While researching Jeju Island eateries a few years back, I paused upon seeing some of the dishes being served at 문쏘 제주협재점 (Moonsso Jeju Hyeopjae Branch) | Naver link, a Japanese restaurant. I made note of it then and just hoped that by the time I finally arrived in Jeu, it would still be open. Fortunately, it was. I parked just outside the restaurant’s entrance and walked inside to find that it was fairly empty. I was quickly seated and then asked to order via a tablet on the table. The one dish I had in mind was the 황게카레 (crab curry), which cost ₩15,000 ($10.51). This is a Japanese curry dish served with a whole steamed crab, a small bed of rice, and an over-easy egg. While I like and enjoy Japanese curry, it’s a dish I almost never seek out for myself, and yet, this just looked too unique to ignore. When the dish arrived, I was given a small plastic bucket, tongs, and kitchen shears for the crab. I broke it open and did what I could to extract the flesh and juices to mix into the curry along with the egg. When I finally tasted it, I was a bit taken aback by the spice and strong ginger flavor. Still, I could taste hints of the crab that I mixed in, and the dish was well balanced in flavor.

서귀포시 (Seogwipo)

If you love the idea of climbing up a tuff cone, look no further than 성산일추봉 (Seongsan Ilchulbong) | Naver link. This tuff cone was originally a separate island, but a buildup of sand and soil connected it to the mass that is Jeju Island. Those who choose to climb up to the top will find not only fantastic views of the landscape and seascape, but also a large crater. The entrance fee costs ₩5,000 (estimated $3.49) for adults. As expected, the hike up to the top of the cone is mostly stairs, but compared to some of the stairs I’ve climbed on other hikes in Korea, these seemed to be a little easier on the feet and knees. There are also a bunch of vertical and pointed rocks on the way up to the top that are quite nice to look at. I reached the top after about 20 minutes of climbing at rather relaxed pace. From there, looking down at the peninsula where my Airbnb was and seeing the road connect to the rest of Jeju Island was spectacular. The crater was just full of greenery, and I wondered what kind of fauna (if any) lived within. After climbing down (there’s a separate path for the descent), I toured around the area a bit and found a bluff from where I could see the ferry heading to 우도 (Udo), an island just a few miles off the coast.

Before climbing Seongsan Ilchulbong, I briefly walked from my Airbnb over to 광치기해변 (Gwangchigi Beach) | Naver link to catch the sunrise. The tide had subsided, exposing the rocks which I walked on top of. I wasn’t the only one there at nearly 6:00am, with several others walking about. I’ve seen my fair share of sunrises in my lifetime, and I have to say, seeing the sun rise here just next to Seongsan Ilchubong is one of the most beautiful and peaceful ones I’ve seen. The countless small black pebbles and sea shells scattered across the beach really added to its uniqueness.

There are many dishes that Jeju Island is renown for, and 갈치조림 (braised hairtail) is one of them. After hiking Seongsan Ilchulbong, I really wanted to head this one restaurant that was famous for it, but unfortunately, they could not accept parties of one until later in the day. Luckily, there are other restaurants nearby that also offer the same dish, so I made my way to 제주뚝배기 (Jeju Clay Pot) | Naver link and ordered it for ₩21,000 ($14.76). Of the banchan that came out, the one I liked most was this shredded cabbage with a mandarin orange vinaigrette, which added this nice combination of sweet and tangy to the cabbage. As for the braised hairtail, I got about four or five sections of hairtail, which were very nicely cooked. There were also two large slices of potato in the dish, which I used to sop up the sauce.

Dinner for my first night in Jeju Island was looking to be a bust, as one restaurant I really wanted to go to closed early while another wasn’t taking walk-ins. After searching for restaurants in the town on Naver, I settled on and headed over to 통발 (Tongbal) | Naver link. Located on the second story of a building, this Japanese-inspired restaurant was cozy and laid-back. I ordered the 1인 사시미 모리아와세 (assorted sashimi - 1 serving) for ₩23,000 ($16.41). I did get a nice selection of vegetable side dishes before the sashimi arrived, including a lightly fried tofu as well as what I think were dried sweet potato slices. The assorted sashimi platter had six types of fish plus shrimp. Some of the white fish were slightly cooked on the skin side, which made for some interesting textural bites. I enjoyed this dish, with the fattier fish like the salmon and tuna being my favorites. I did think about ordering another dish, but the one I was looking at was no longer available for the night.

Near the entrance to Seongsan Ilchulbong is 이쁜선물가게 (Pretty Gift Shop) | Naver link. While I did head inside to peruse through good selection of gifts to buy, including sweets and various souvenirs, my attention was drawn to the stall they have set up outside selling juice and snacks, one of which is ice cream. I opted for the 우도땅콩 아이스크림 (Udo peanut ice cream), which cost ₩4,000 (estimated $2.79). Apparently Udo is known for its peanuts, so tourists love getting this ice cream when they’re on Jeju Island. The soft serve ice cream came with a healthy sprinkle of chopped peanuts, and in all, the flavor of peanut really comes through.

I had a video call scheduled, so while on my way south, I stopped at 서귀피안 베이커리 (Seogwipean Bakery) | Naver link. Located in a three-story building, this bakery and cafe offers a scenic view of the coast and has an impressive array of baked goods. I wasn’t too hungry but did want something small to munch on as well as coffee. Their menu does indicate what the “hot” items are, so I ordered a 레몬 쿠키 (lemon cookie) and 청보리안 (Jeju green barley coffee) for ₩13,000 ($9.14). The cookie itself was well baked, and I liked how subtle the lemon’s acidic tones were. The Jeju green barley coffee was very interesting, as it was topped with this ice cream-like substance that reminded me a bit of matcha. When drinking it, because of this substance, it felt like I was eating melting ice cream before the coffee kicked in. Later, as I was heading out, I looked at their fridge section and balked when I saw that they were selling cans of AriZona Tea for ₩6,500 (estimated $4.53) apiece. Talk about a premium… or daylight robbery!

While heading south, I stopped at 쇠소깍 (Soesokkak Estuary) | Naver link. This is where 효돈천 (Hyodoncheon Stream) and the sea meet, forming a very scenic spot. While walking along the stream, I could peer down to see visitors rowing boats up and down. As tempted as I was to try it as well, I did notice that there were no more boats at the launching point, so I knew I would likely have to wait a while, which I didn’t want to do. Instead, I walked over to 하효쇠소깍해변 (Hahyo Soesokkak Beach), also known as Hahyo Black Sand Beach. The point where the stream’s waters flow into the sea makes for a really nice view, and while walking along the beach, I couldn’t help but marvel at the stones that were just peppered with holes (apologies to those who have trypophobia). I also walked down the dock a bit to get a better view of two lighthouses, one white and one red.

Jeju Island has many waterfalls, and the first one I saw was 정방폭포 (Jeongbang Falls) | Naver link. The entrance fee costs ₩2,000 ($1.41), and from there, it’s a very brief hike to the falls, the waters of which fall right into the sea. To get a pretty good view of the falls, I had to gingerly walk over the rocks that make up the shore here, and it’s quite amazing to just see this interaction between the land and the sea.

Having only dined on seafood for every meal since my arrival on Jeju Island, I wanted to try something different during my second night. After browsing on Naver for restaurants in my vicinity, I stopped at 제주스럽닭 서귀포올레시장점 (Jeju Seureop Chicken Seogwipo Olle Market Branch) | Naver link. Can’t go wrong with fried chicken, right? Judging from their menu, they have way more chicken choices than I had anticipated, and I just wanted to try something I probably wouldn’t get anywhere else, so I ordered the 댕귤mini + 까망 SET for ₩28,500 ($20.03). The 댕귤mini is one serving of boneless fried chicken tossed in a mandarin orange sauce. The 까망 is another boneless fried chicken, but it comes out black thanks to a combination of squid ink and black sesame used for the batter. The set also comes with pickled radish and a drink (in my case, Coke). The proprietor warned me it would take a while to come out, but I didn’t mind since freshly made fried chicken is the best fried chicken. I have to say, after taking a bite out of the mandarin orange fried chicken, I was convinced that this was one of the best fried chicken I had ever tasted. The sweetness of the sauce was addicting, and the chicken itself was crunchy and juicy. The black fried chicken made for a very interesting dish - I got hints of black sesame on the crunchy exterior, and the sauces that came with it on the side really elevate the chicken. This set is meant for two people, and as much as I really enjoyed the chicken, I could feel that enthusiasm slowly ebb away as I was pushing myself to the finish - but that’s to be expected when eating that much fried food by myself.

Korea seems to have a thing for bridges and paths that light up in multiple colors at night, and I know I’m basic when I say that not only have I been enjoying them, I’d like to take photos of them all. Ugh - I’m almost disgusted with myself. Anyway, there’s one called 새연교 (Saeyeongyo Bridge) | Naver link, which bridges the land mass of Jeju Island with 새섬공원 (Saesom Park), which - as I found out - was closed. Not that it mattered to me much; the bridge itself was what I wanted to see, and as a bonus, I got some pretty sweet views of the sunset as well as the boats in the harbor.

Another waterfall on my itinerary was 천지연폭포 (Cheonjiyeon Falls) | Naver link. Word of advice for visitors: don’t just locate the falls on a map app like KakaoMap and Naver Map and head there, as the only way to access and see the falls is through a specific entrance. I was able to locate signs that pointed me in the direction I needed to go, and after paying the ₩2,000 ($1.41) entrance fee, I reached the falls after about a five-minute walk. The paths leading to and from the falls offer plenty to look at, and there really is a sense of serenity here that I enjoyed. The falls themselves didn’t seem as high as Jeongbang Falls, but there were nice to look at.

Jeju Island is known for its breed of horses, the 제주마 (Jeju horse). For better or for worse, it’s also known for the restaurants here that serve horse meat. I generally like trying dishes that are considered taboo, so I wasn’t planning to leave the island without having tried out this island delicacy. I came to 중문신라원 말고기 (Jungmun Shillawon Horse Meat) | Naver link for lunch and was amazed at the variety of ways that horse meat is served here, including sashimi (!) and raw (like a tartare). As tempting as raw horse was, I didn’t know how my stomach would react to it (especially since I was to climb up Hallasan the next day), so I begrudgingly ordered the 말갈비찜 (braised horse ribs) and also asked for a 공깃밥 (steamed rice) for ₩21,000 ($14.71). While I enjoyed the dish, I was surprised to find that the horse wasn’t as gamey as I thought. Compared to beef, the meat was leaner and a bit tougher. The stew itself was solid and not as rich as that for braised beef ribs. Looking back at it, I probably should have ordered one of the raw horse dishes. Oh well, that’s for the next time I visit the island.

While 약천사 (Yakcheonsa) | Naver link isn’t the most impressive Buddhist temple I visited during my Korea trip, it’s certainly up there. When I went, there were only a handful of visitors, and parking was plentiful. There also wasn’t a charge for admission. There’s a path, flanked by hareubang statues on both sides, leading up to a flight of stairs, which then rise up toward the main temple itself. Though the temple’s origins are unknown, I could see that it has been well maintained. I’m not Buddhist, so I don’t experience anything spiritual when I visit, but I can’t help but be impressed by these temples for their architectural designs and artworks. One of the temple’s features that I greatly admired were the window shutters, as they displayed carvings of Buddhist folklore and floral patterns.

If you were to ask me the one spot on Jeju Island that’s a must-visit, I’d say it’s 대포해안주상절리대 (Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff) | Naver link. These two-kilometer-long stretch of columnar joints was formed from a lava flow from the 녹하지오름 (Nokhaji Parisitic Cone). The formation these joints took is what makes them so unusual, as they form an array of pentagonal and hexagonal cracks (these are referred to as the columnar joints). These pillars are formed by cracking during the lava’s cooling-induced contractions. The entrance fee costs ₩2,000 ($1.40) for adults, and the parking fee cost ₩1,000 (estimated $0.70). Though I recall visiting this area on my previous Korea trip 13 years prior, I couldn’t remember just how extraordinary these cracks looked, or how the pillars reminded me of towers of coins. The contrast between the gray-black columnar joints and the ocean’s deep blue make for extraordinary sights, and I surprised myself at how much time I spending time just marveling at the views.

The last set of waterfalls I visited while on the island were 천제연폭포 (Cheonjeyeon Falls) | Naver link. The entrance fee to view these waterfalls cost ₩2,500 (estimated $1.75). There are actually three waterfalls that can be viewed in this area, and there are markers indicating directions for each. This area consists of a subtropical forest covering two sides of a valley, where the waterfalls are located. The first waterfall actually wasn’t available, as it flows only after a heavy rainfall. Still, I loved seeing the rock formations at the first waterfall’s location. The second waterfall, located lower in the valley, was very pretty to look at, as I was able to see it from the bottom of the falls. The third waterfall could only be seen from an elevated position, but it was nonetheless pretty.

Also located at Cheonjeyon Falls is 선임교 (Seonim Bridge) | Naver link. This pedestrian bridge stretches over the aforementioned valley, and it is incredibly impressive, both to look at and walk on. The bridge has large white engravings of nymphs on both sides, and it elevates toward its center so visitors can get a pretty unbeatable view of the area. It leads to one of Cheonjeyeon Falls’ two entrances, and on the way there, I was able to check out the 오복천조각상 (Fountain of Five Blessings) as well as the 천제루 (Cheonjeru Pavilion).

Jeju Island has no shortage of beaches, and one I wanted to see was 사계해안 (Sagye Beach) | Naver link. This beach offers a pretty great view of the nearby 산방산 (Sanbangsan), which looms over the nearby area. There’s free parking along the road running along the beach, and there appeared to be a decent selection of cafes nearby (I didn’t visit them). From the beach, I was able to look out toward some nearby islets, and there were some good tide pools that I could walk to. The pools contained plenty of small shellfish and even some small fish, and I enjoyed just soaking in the views, breathing in the ocean air, and relaxing from all the walking I did earlier that day.