Korea Trip 2022: Day Trips from Gwangju

One of the great things about Gwangju is its close proximity to areas of interest in the Jeolla region. While I was there, I went on day trips to Damyang, Boseong, and Naejangsan National Park. The trips out to each of these places took less than an hour, and you can spend a decent amount of time out there depending on what you want to do.

Damyang

From U-Square, I took a bus (I don’t have a record of the cost, sorry) out to the 담양공용버스터미널 (Damyang Passenger Bus Terminal) | Naver link. Damyang is a quiet town out in the countryside, and the terminal itself had space only for a few buses, with a small waiting area. I found a nearby taxi and asked the driver to take me to 죽녹원 (Juknokwon) | Naver link. He didn’t seem too pleased since he said it’s a fairly short drive away, but nevertheless, he took me there. When we arrived, I made sure to generously thank him.

Juknokwon is a bamboo forest cultivated by the town, and it was formed about 20 years ago. It cost me ₩3,000 ($2.10) to enter, and while there were a lot of visitors (this was on a Saturday), the walking paths here are numerous and wide enough such that it never once felt crowded. From the main entrance, I started to walk north along the perimeter before eventually heading toward the center, as there’s a hill from which I could see the top of the bamboo plants and see into the distance a bit. There are some intriguing art pieces spread across the forest, and the ones that seemed to get the most attention were those of pandas in various poses. While the paths do incline from time to time, walking on them wasn’t strenuous at all. Before I left, I went to a village-like area near the main entrance and bought a cup of 댓잎아이스크림 (bamboo leaf ice cream) from 죽공예할인매장 (Bamboo Craft Discount Store) | Naver link for ₩3,500 (estimated $2.45). It tasted very much like matcha, and it brought me relief on what was a warm autumn day.

It was around lunchtime when I left Juknokwon, and I knew just where to go. Running along the nearby 영산강 (Yeongsan River), opposite the bamboo forest, is 담양국수거리 (Damyang Noodle Street) | Naver link, which is chock-full of restaurants serving noodles. Some of these places, wanting to accommodate as many customers as possible, have outdoor seating areas looking over the banks of the stream. Hungry people packed these restaurants both inside and out, forcing me to look a bit further down the street.

I came across a restaurant that thankfully wasn’t as full: 미소댓잎국수 (Miso Bamboo Leaf Noodles) | Naver link. I put in an order for 죽순비빔국수대 (bamboo shoots mixed noodles), which cost ₩9,000 ($6.30). The dish contained a mixture of river snails, bamboo shoots, and plum syrup in a spicy marinade, dried seaweed, and cucumber strips, all atop a bed of green noodles. I mixed everything together before digging in. There was a freshness to this dish that I really liked, even though I couldn’t finish it.

I saw that my next destination was walkable, so I began heading east along the river. There were lots of people milling about, from couples and families to volunteer groups. Trees lined the paths, so there was plenty of shade for me to avoid being in the sun. On this path, I passed by a track and field, an archery range, and farms. I admit, walking on the paths here for the next 20 minutes or so made me have somewhat of a yearning for an idyllic countryside life.

After crossing a major road, I had arrived at the 메타세쿼이아 가로수길 (Metasequoia-Lined Road) | Naver link. While the road was certainly part of my itinerary, I didn’t realize that it’s part of a mini theme park of sorts called the 담양 메타세쿼이아 랜드 (Damyang Metasequoia Land). Curious about what was inside, I paid the entrance fee of ₩2,000 ($1.40) and headed inside. This park contains activity centers, picnic areas, a farm, and several ponds. The park was very well maintained despite some buildings that weren’t open. I saw a center showcasing frogs, but when I went inside, I found that it’s intended for children, with play areas and learning exhibits. I did walk around the center hoping to see some frogs outside, but alas, I didn’t see any. The park’s highlight was clearly the beautiful metasequoia-lined road, of which I - plus my fellow visitors - took plenty of photos. As nice as the park was, and as much I liked walking around inside, I wouldn’t say that it’s a must-visit. I reckon the people who would enjoy it the most would be families with young children.

After leaving the park, I walked along the same stream as before to return to where I had started. I waited for a bit at a nearby bus stop, but frustratingly, no buses were coming anytime soon. I had no luck getting a taxi through Kakao T either, so I ended up walking all the way back to the bus terminal, which took less than a half hour. I didn’t mind it as much as I thought I would, as I was able to see what kind of life Damyang had. After waiting a little while longer at the station, I took a local bus back to Gwangju.

Boseong

The next day, I took another bus (again, I don’t have the cost record) from U-Square to head to Boseong, which is located southeast of the city, just a little ways inland from the coast. The journey took about an hour, and we got off at 보성버스터미널 (Boseong Bus Terminal) | Naver link, which seemed as though no one was really looking after the place! There’s a single electronic kiosk to buy tickets, and the restrooms were well maintained, but there was no staff present. Having learned my lesson in Tongyeong, I took a photo of the timetable for buses heading back to Gwangju so I knew when to return to the terminal by.

Just a short walk away from the terminal is 녹차골보성향토시장 (Green Tea Valley Boseong Folk Market) | Naver link, a market that - on the morning I went - was mostly empty save for several restaurants. One of these was 특미관 (Teukmigwan) | Naver link, and they specialize in infusing the green tea that grows in Boseong into their dishes. I ordered the 녹차 떡갈비반반 (green tea-infused short rib patties - half and half), which cost ₩26,000 ($14.70). A impressive spread of banchan and the elements for ssam arrived first, followed by the short rib patties - with one made from Hanwoo beef and the other from pork - as well as steamed egg, soup, salad, and rice. With the patties, the taste of green tea hit me first before the meat’s flavors sank in, resulting in interesting bites. I ate these with the salad, raw garlic, and ssamjang, all wrapped in lettuce leaves. The steamed egg, soup, and the banchan were all nice even though I couldn’t finish everything - there was just too much food. To finish the meal, the very hospitable hostess brought me some 녹차식혜 (green tea-infused rice punch), and I really enjoyed this, with the green tea flavor and the sweetness of the rice punch blending together well.

Having eaten breakfast, it was time for me to visit Boseong’s famous green tea fields. Apparently their green tea fields account for a significant chunk of the nation’s green tea production. The most well known fields here are located at 대한다원보성녹차밭 (Daehan Dawon Boseong Green Tea Plantation) | Naver link. I got on a local bus, and one of the drop-off points was at one of the pathways leading to the entrance of that plantation. The path is lined with metasequoias, which drove up my anticipation. While walking, the first of the green tea fields came into sight, with the morning sun’s rays gracing them. I paid the entrance fee of ₩4,000 ($2.80) and took a small map before heading inside. There were several stores where visitors were buying souvenirs (usually in the form of the green tea itself) or the popular green tea-infused ice cream. The fields are planted into a hillside, and after seeing just how many visitors there were ascending, I decided to go up a hiking trail to the left leading up to the top of the hill, from where I could get a bird’s-eye view of the plantation. The hike took me about 20 minutes but wasn’t too difficult. Sure enough, the sights from up top were magnificent; I could even see the coast in the distance, and I got some wide views of the plantation itself! The fact that I encountered less people by going this route was a bonus. While descending from the hill, I walked into the rows of the green tea plants to see what they were like, and no matter where I went, the fields always looked impressive.

While researching for my trip, I learned that there’s a cafe overlooking a green tea field and thus is perfect for visitors who want to enjoy a great view while enjoying their desserts. Naturally, I just had to go. My attempts to get a taxi didn’t pan out, so I ended up walking from the plantation along the main road for about 20 minutes to get to 초록잎이 펼치는 세상 (The World of Spreading Green Leaves) | Naver link. I bought a 녹차 유산균 아이스크림 (green tea yogurt ice cream) for ₩4,000 ($2.80) and took it to a lower level outside. From there, I got a pretty spectacular view of the green tea fields below, which opened up into a valley. I saw farms, a lake, hills, and mountains, and I couldn’t stop looking at this very green view as I ate my very refreshing and tasty dessert.

I successfully got a taxi from the cafe to the terminal. There, I used the electronic kiosk to buy a ticket for the earliest bus back to Gwangju for ₩10,500 ($7.35). I had to wait a bit, so I walked around the very quiet - almost sleepy - town, wondering if I could ever see myself living here (I don’t).

Naejangsan National Park

One of the reasons why I came to Korea just before the autumn season was to ensure that I was around just in time to see the fall foliage. During my research, I read that one of the best places to see the foliage was 내장산국립공원 (Naejangsan National Park) | Naver link. Its name comes from one of its nearby mountains, 내장산 (Naejangsan). After looking up fall foliage photos from that area, I immediately added it to my itinerary. I left in the morning by taking the KTX train (no cost record) from Gwangju Songjeong Station to 정읍역 호남선 (Jeongeup Station) | Naver link, which was about a 20-minute ride. I’ve found that with KTX stations, there’s usually a line of taxis along the street or parking lot to pick up people, and it was no different here. I approached the first taxi in line and told the driver to take me to Naejangsan. He did, and as he drove, he answered my questions (how was the fall foliage at this time, where should I eat) and in turn asked me questions about life in America. I made sure to come here on a weekday to avoid crowds, but even then, park officials closed the road to cars about a mile away from the park’s main facilities. My driver dropped me off right before the closure, and the ride in total cost me ₩16,400 ($11.48).

Where the road was closed off to cars, there was a booth at which I paid the entrance fee of ₩4,000 ($2.80). Once I crossed the bridge right behind it, I could either walk the rest of the way or take a small bus. Since I wanted to experience the park as much as possible before it got crowded, I paid a small fee (no cost record) to take the bus. A few minutes later, the bus dropped us off near the visitor center, and I went inside to ask where the best spots to see the fall foliage were. I came here on October 24, and while some of the leaves had changed, it would take more time before the foliage reached its peak. Funnily enough, the park official told me that the best place to see the foliage at that time was on the road that the bus had come on! Thus, I made a mental note to walk back on the road when leaving the park.

A short walk away from the visitor center is 내장산국립공원 우화정 (Uhwajeong Pavilion) | Naver link, a pavilion located on a pond, with just a simple path of stones leading to it. With the pond and trees providing the backdrop, it makes for a prime spot for photos. A couple visitors were, of course, taking photos of it or posed for photos, and I was lucky to have gotten a few peaceful minutes with it alone. Even better, a couple of the trees in front of it had changed its leaves for the season, so when including them in a photo, I got a great contrast of colors with the trees’ red and yellow, the pond’s green, and the pavilion’s bright blue.

Next, I headed over to 내장산 국립공원케이블카 (Naejangsan Cable Car) | Naver link, which takes visitors from the ground up to 연자봉 (Yeonjabong), one of the park’s peaks. It doesn’t go all the way up to the summit, so after getting off, I would have to hike the rest of the way. A single trip each way cost ₩6,000 ($4.20), so after paying, I got into the car with about 20 other people, and off we went to the peak.

After getting dropped off, most people were heading toward an observatory that was a short walk away, so I joined the masses. The observatory is a two-story pavilion, and to my delight, it was surrounded by fall foliage, including leaves that were a crimson red! From the second floor, I could look out and see the nearby mountain ranges and also look down into the valley and see Uhwajeong Pavilion as well as the cable car station. As great as those views were, they didn’t compare to being so close to the fall foliage, and a lot of the visitors were taking photos of the trees and in front of the trees.

After returning to the cable car drop-off point, I started to hike up to Yeonjabong’s summit. The trail leading up to it starts off as dirt before transitioning to stairs as well as rocks. Some of these rocks were quite large, so when climbing them, I had to make sure my shoes got a good grip before lifting myself up. It took 30 or so minutes to finally arrive at the summit, and despite there being a fair amount of people, there was plenty of room for all of us to sit down and rest. I went to the other end of the summit, partly wanting to have space to myself and partly wanting a prime spot to take some photos. When I did, I was pleased to see a lone cypress tree, so I settled down there. While taking photos of the tree, several hikers appeared behind it, revealing that there’s another hiking trail that reaches this summit! The skies were fairly clear, so I could see for miles around and spot many other peaks. During peak foliage, the mountains turn into blankets of red, orange, and yellow, and while they were mostly green that day, that didn’t make the views any less spectacular. After resting up, I headed back down the trail.

I had yet to eat that day, so after arriving back at the cable car drop-off, I decided to get something to much on. There are several vendor stalls selling a good mix of food, and because that day was very chilly, I ordered fish cakes in their broth for ₩5,000 (estimated $3.47). While neither the fish cakes nor the broth set my taste buds alight, what was important for me was that it was hot. Now that I wasn’t feeling as hungry or cold, I could continue exploring the park. While I had intended on hiking back down, I was no longer in the mood, so I bought another one-way ticket for the cable car and returned.

There was one last place in Naejangsan I wanted to see, and that was 내장사 (Naejangsa) | Naver link, a very well-known Buddhist temple located about a 10-minute walk away from the visitor center. Because my legs were feeling a bit sore from my hike, I walked at a leisurely place, stopping often to take photos of the autumn leaves. There are several trails leading to the temple, and I chose to take the simple one that’s flat and not strenuous at all.

There were many visitors hanging around and heading into the temple, but once they were inside, they thankfully kept quiet for the most part. Since the sun was out and the skies fairly clear, the temple’s colors seemed to really pop, whether they be of the buildings and statues to the rainbow of lanterns. Compared to the other temples I visited during my Korea trip, there was a balance between tranquility and liveliness here that really made Naejangsa stand out. Since the temple is located right in this valley, standing in it and looking up at the sky gave me the impression that it was opening itself up to receive whatever came its way, from sunlight and wind to rain and snow.

Having seen and experienced everything I had in my Naejangsan itinerary, I started walking all the way back to the main entrance. I passed by the visitor center, then the cable car station, and then Uhwajeong Pavilion. As I reached the other end of the pond that the pavilion occupied, I discovered that the pond is dammed off, and the stream stemming from it flows all the way under the bridge at the main entrance, and then beyond that. From here, walking back to the main entrance took me a little over 20 minutes, and even though the park official told me the fall foliage seen here was the best available at that time, I thought the foliage I saw up at the Yeonjabong observatory was more brilliant. Still, the sights while walking back were very nice, and my legs got a good extended workout.

I made sure to only get a light snack earlier up on Yeonjabong because I wanted to eat at one of the restaurants located near the main entrance. There are a lot to choose from, and from what I saw, they seemed to serve the same menu items. My taxi driver from earlier had even told me that all of the restaurants were great - perhaps he meant to say, “You can’t go wrong with any of them!” A quick Naver search pointed me toward 내장산한옥회관 (Naejangsan Hanok Hall) | Naver link. While my driver had recommended that I get the wild vegetable bibimbap, I decided not to get it for two reasons: I already tried it when I went to Seoraksan, and the restaurant had 해물파전 (seafood pancake) - a dish I had yet to eat during my time in Korea. Thus, I ordered it for ₩18,000 ($12.60). It arrived some time later, and I realized in retrospect that they didn’t give me banchan, which seemed a little odd. The pieces of squid in the pancake were substantial, and while I liked the dish, I’ve had better seafood pancakes elsewhere.

There were a couple taxis parked on the road leading to Naejangsan, and I got one to take me back to Jeongeup Station; the fare cost me ₩16,900 ($11.83). At the station, I bought a ticket for the earliest KTX back to Gwangju for ₩8,400 ($5.88). Word of advice: when taking a train to Gwangju, always check to see which station you’re heading to, as Gwangju has two. As it turned out, I got on the wrong platform and had to run over to the correct one, and I (thankfully) managed to get on the train with a minute to spare.

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