I should have guessed that the part of Argentina well known for its glaciers was always going to be cold. The wind is constantly blowing in El Calafate, biting at exposed skin, whipping hair about, and clamoring so loudly at night that I thought it was actually raining. And yet, it plays a pivotal part in the natural environment in and around El Calafate, leading to many wondrous sights, as I found out during my stay.

The Glaciers

To El Calafate's west lies some of the world's famous glaciers, all part of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. I had the chance to see three, two of which were up close. Whichever one you see, you will have to pay the park's admission fee of 30,000 pesos. However, if you plan to visit the park on back-to-back days, save your ticket - if you bring it with you the next day, you only have to pay 15,000 pesos for that day.

Perito Moreno

If you've ever seen a photo of a glacier from Argentina, it's likely Perito Moreno, an icon of Patagonia with its light blue-white complexion, broken only by black streaks due to the accumulated sediment.

Perito Moreno was really the only reason why I wanted to visit El Calafate, and while researching what to do there, I saw the opportunity to actually trek the glacier. The temptation was too great; I made a reservation for the trekking tour via Get Your Guide, which contracts with Hielo y Aventura.

My trekking journey began in the mid-afternoon instead of the morning as I had originally anticipated. I arrived at Hielo y Aventura's port in Puerto Bajo las Sombras and was put on a boat heading to Perito Moreno.

As we approached the glacier, the captain stopped the boat for some time in front of it so that we could take photos and videos of not only the glacier, but some of the icebergs that had broken off from it. The sight was simply breathtaking.

Upon disembarking near the glacier on black sand and rocks, we were told to join one of two trekking tour groups: one led in Spanish, and the other in English. Our English-speaking group of roughly 20 people was led by Jonathan, our guide. He led us across the rocks, and as he did so, he would intermittently stop and gave us facts about the glacier, the andiperla (an insect and the sole creature that lives in the glacier), and its history. I asked him about whether climate change has affected Perito Moreno, and he affirmed it has, pointing out an area in the nearby forest where the glacier’s limits used to be.

Soon, we arrived at some shelters, where Jonathan and his fellow staff provided us with bright orange helmets and helped put crampons on our shoes. It was necessary for us to have gloves on, as the ice on the glacier can be quite sharp, so they provided them to those who didn’t bring any. Walking on the crampons was a surreal experience at first, making me feel a little more elevated but at the same time uncomfortable when walking on the rocks. Just before we took our first steps onto the glacier, Jonathan told us how we should be walking: feet spread apart and coming down with the whole foot when taking a step, and - when descending - knees slightly bent while leaning back a bit. After that, we took our first, tentative steps on the ice, which held firm under our feet.

As we made our way up to the summit point (which has to be moved regularly depending on the glacier’s conditions), we would occasionally stop as Jonathan would point out some interesting features, such as the presence of water (which we could drink - yes, I did drink it, and it tasted like nothing) and where it flows, and how holes and crevasses would form in the ice. At the summit (which honestly wasn’t very high), we had a good vantage point from where we could see the remainder of the glacier as well as the mountains, forest, and waters of Lago Argentino. After the summit (we couldn’t stay in one place for too long as there was another group just behind us), Jonathan led us through a couple crevasses in the glacier.

We knew that our trekking adventure was coming to an end when Jonathan brought us to a table containing two bottles of whiskey, glasses, and chocolate. The guides used their ice axes to break off pieces of the ice off the glacier, and after putting them in the glasses, poured whiskey (or water for those who didn’t drink alcohol) out for us. By this time, it was starting to get considerably colder since it had begun raining, and the whiskey warmed me up a bit. We made our way off of the glacier and returned to the shelters, where we returned our helmets, crampons, and gloves (if applicable). We hiked through the nearby forest for about 10 minutes until we reached the shore, where the boat came to pick us all up. Just as the boat was nearing us, we all heard a large, splitting crack, and we turned to see a portion of the glacier break off and land into the lake. Jonathan had told me just moments prior that the ice breaking was unpredictable, so I was so glad to have witnessed it.

Trekking on Perito Moreno was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I enjoyed every moment of it. I believe it’s a must-do activity if you’re spending time in El Calafate.

Upsala (Well, a Glimpse of It) and Spegazzini

The next morning, I returned to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, though this time, I drove to Puerto Punta Bandera, where I got on another ship to take me to the Upsala and Spegazzini Glaciers. I heard great things about this tour, so I booked mine via Solo Patagonia.

I’ll admit, the first half of this tour had me underwhelmed. Our boat first stopped in front of two large, sky-blue icebergs, and we held our position there for what felt like 30 minutes. Considering that our boat ride up until this point had lasted nearly an hour, I was starting to feel antsy. As great as the icebergs were, I didn’t want spend a significant amount of time for just icebergs, especially given what I experienced with Perito Moreno the day before. Then the crew told us that it was the park’s policy that we stay at least 10 to 12 kilometers away from Upsala Glacier, which we could somewhat make out in the distance. Even though our vision was obscured by a combination of the distance and the mist, I could tell that Upsala Glacier looked very impressive.

My spirits picked up as the boat made its way toward Spegazzini Glacier, which took another 40 minutes or so to get to. Anticipation was building for this particular glacier, which is the tallest one in the park, as its highest point reaches 135 meters. Before the glacier revealed itself, the sight of the nearby mountain, with its long stretches of deep snow banks, took our breath away. The snow appeared to be flowing down the mountain, and to what?

We found the answer when Spegazzini Glacier appeared, and when we saw just how its ice connected with the snow from the mountain, our breaths were taken away yet again. I would say that Perito Moreno is wondrous, whereas Spegazzini Glacier is otherworldly, what with its jagged crystalline edges and the fact that the howling winds were stinging our faces and creating what looked like whirlwinds on the lake, whipping the boat about. We spent about 20 minutes in front of the glacier before leaving, as the winds were so strong - it was almost as though it was attempting to banish us from its presence.

That said, we weren’t quite done yet. About 10 minutes later, our boat docked at Refugio Spegazzini, a restaurant and viewpoint situated across from the glacier. Here, we could dine in at the restaurant, order snacks and small bites, eat whatever food we brought ourselves (in my case, it was South American instant noodles - which were bland), and admire the glacier from a safe distance away. After disembarking here, we were given essentially an hour and a half to eat and relax. After that, we returned to Puerto Punta Bandera, bringing this tour to a close.

For the Audubons

For those seeking perhaps a less adventurous and more peaceful time in El Calafate, I would recommend checking out Reserva Laguna Nimez, just located in the northern part of the city, shortly before the shores of Lago Argentino. This is a nature reserve featuring a three-kilometer-long trail winding around and in between two lagoons as well as five distinct natural environments: wetlands, steppe, reed, lakeshore, and grassland. Nearly 100 species of birds can be seen here, in addition to several land mammals. There was barely anyone when I went, and as much as I enjoyed spotting what I think were kestrals (which had to fight and contend with the hard-blowing wind) and ibis, I appreciate the peace and tranquility present here. The admission fee is 12,000 pesos.

Downtown

Once in El Calafate, I would recommend checking out the Downtown area at least once, as that’s where the majority of restaurants and shops are located. Admittedly, I didn’t have much time to really explore the area, but what I saw and participated in - like visiting Heladería Acuarela for their ice cream and Dulce Lugar for their alfajores (akin to moon pies and choco pies) was quite neat.

The Eats

LIKED: Cordero from Parrilla y Tenedor Libre Estilo Campo.

LIKED: Morcilla, cordero, and asado from Parrilla y Tenedor Libre Estilo Campo.

LIKED: Cordero Patagónico con reducción de calafate y verduras salteadas from Parrilla don Pichon.

LIKED: Lenguado a la Fiorentina (Florentine-style sole) from Sergio Restaurant y Marisquería.

LIKED: Panzotti de calabata, tomillo y provolone gratinados con salsa de queso azul (butternut spuash pantzotti, thyme, and provolone au gratin with blue cheese sauce) from Buenos Cruces Pasta Bar.

LIKED: Calafate ice cream (top) from Heladería Acuarela.

LIKED: Calafate alfajore from Dulce Lugar.

LIKED: Cazuela de guanaco Patagónico from La Pulpería.

DISLIKED: Lentil dip from Parrilla don Pichon.

El Calafate has a nice selection of regional dishes for those who are interested. Cordero (whole roasted lamb) is probably the Patagonia region’s claim to fame when it comes to food, and El Calafate has a lot of restaurants serving it. It’s actually a common sight for the cordero, sometimes up to three at a time, being cooked over a hot fire next to these restaurants’ windows - which is a genius marketing tactic for those who have never seen such a thing. I’ve tried it at two different spots during my time here, and I would thoroughly recommend trying the cordero Patagónico con reducción de calafate y verduras salteadas (Patagonian lamb with calafate sauce and sauteed vegetables) at Parrilla don Pichon. Another type of meat being served in local restaurants belongs to the guanaco, a camelid native to South America that is closely related to the llama. I had the cazuela de guanaco Patagónico (guanaco stew) at La Pulpería and enjoyed it. Bread is commonly served at any Argentinian restaurant, especially if you’re ordering some type of meat, and in El Calafate, some bring out lentils mixed with olive oil to accompany it. Personally, I’m not the biggest fan, but that’s because I generally don’t eat lentils. There are also calafate berries, which are incorporated into dishes, turned into jam or sauces, and even featured as a popular ice cream flavor.

For Asian Americans who grew up eating at Chinese buffets and want that taste of familiarity, you’re in luck - there’s a decent one in El Calafate! Parrilla y Tenedor Libre Estilo Campo serves up usual fare like chow mein, fried rice, stir-fried meats, fried chicken wings (always reliably good), and jello, but also Argentinian dishes including empanadas, morcilla, and even the cordero, which costs 2,000 pesos extra.

Travel Tips:

If you have a car when in El Calafate, there are two things to look out for: potholes and dogs. The roads leading to and from the airport and Parque Nacional Los Glaciares are full of potholes, so be wary of the road ahead when driving. Regarding dogs, the locals here appear to be content with letting them be out and about, especially in the Downtown area. While the dogs I encountered leave people alone (a far cry compared to the US), they do have a tendency to suddenly cross the road or run after a car for whatever reason. It’s important to drive with constant vigilance here.

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